Grilled Citrus-and-Spice Turkey

1. Place turkey on a large rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan. Pat dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Finely grate 11/2 teaspoons lemon zest and 21/2 teaspoons orange zest into a bowl (reserve fruit). Add spice rub and oil and stir to combine. Rub spice mixture under and over skin of turkey. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and chill 24 hours.

2. Let turkey sit at room temperature 1 hour. Pat dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Brush butter on skin. Cut reserved fruit into quarters and place in cavity of turkey. Tie legs together with kitchen string and tuck wings underneath. 

3. Prepare a charcoal grill to medium-low heat (about 325°F) and set up for indirect cooking. Soak wood chips in water to cover 30 minutes; drain. 

4. Place a small aluminum foil drip pan on indirect heat side of grill underneath where turkey will sit. Arrange coals on opposite side, covering about one-third of grill. Add enough water to foil pan to come halfway up sides.

5. Drain wood chips and add to coals. Place grill grate on grill, brush it clean, and set turkey, breast side up, over drip pan. Cover grill and partially close air vents. Grill, rotating turkey every so often for even cooking, until internal thigh temperature reads 160°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 3 to 4 hours. (Every 30 minutes or so, check the grill temperature; it should be between 300°F and 350°F. You can regulate it by adding more coals, adding more liquid to drip pan, or opening or closing vents.) Cover turkey loosely with aluminum foil if it begins to get too dark.

6. Transfer turkey to a large cutting board or platter and let it rest at least 20 minutes before carving.