The last time I visited St Ives in Cornwall, I solemnly swore: Never again.
Throughout the UK, seaside towns are beloved for their unique cultural offering, which often teams the best of seaside dining with kitsch (though no less cute) independent shops, and galleries populated by small-scale artists, their work inspired by the local landscape and town itself.
Many of us are willing to travel to see such coastal enclaves: beyond admiring their glorious beaches, dedicated locals transform them into culturally desirable hotspots. Where this causes problems, is when word spreads a little too voraciously. Sadly, St Ives has become one such place: inundated streets, overcrowded restaurants and a saturated market have dulled its shine.
To help lighten St Ives' load – and spread some of that economy-boosting tourist love beyond England's South West – we've turned our sights northward for lesser-known coastal towns to try.
Undiscovered even by some of its neighbours, Saltburn-by-the-Sea (shortened by locals and those in-the-know to Saltburn) boasts its very own colourful coastal offering. Here's how we'd spend a weekend there.
What to do in Saltburn
Much of Saltburn's charm lies in the pace of the town: mornings spent beachcombing beneath dramatic cliffs, afternoons browsing independent shops and evenings beside the sea as the light fades over the historic pier.
Browse Saltburn Studios
At the heart of the town’s creative community sits Saltburn Studios, an artist-run studio complex hub housed within a beautiful, wood-panelled building. Exhibitions, workshops and artist residencies run throughout the year, showcasing local painters, ceramicists, printmakers and photographers inspired by the surrounding coastline. The space offers a glimpse into the artistic pulse now shaping this Victorian town’s identity.
Walk the Cleveland Way
Saltburn marks the beginning – or end – of the Cleveland Way, one of England’s most scenic long-distance walking routes. Dramatic cliff paths stretch out along the Yorkshire coastline, offering sweeping sea views, heather-covered headlands and frequent glimpses of seabirds circling overhead. Even shorter sections of the route are striking and worth taking.
Ride the cliff lift
The Grade II-listed Saltburn Cliff Lift remains one of the town’s most beloved landmarks, revealing its true age and character. Opened in 1884 and still powered by water balance, the historic and strikingly scarlet funicular slowly descends the steep cliffs between the town and beach below. The journey lasts only a few minutes, but the panoramic coastal views that stretch out to the North Sea have a way of staying with you – on windy and sunny days alike.
Spend an afternoon on the beach
Saltburn’s beach possesses a striking wildness, particularly outside peak summer months. Its vast stretches of sand unfurl beneath iron-rich cliffs, while surfers dot the horizon year-round. Even on colder days, the beach draws walkers, photographers and cold-water swimmers wrapped in scarves and carrying steaming takeaway coffees against the sea breeze.
Explore the North York Moors
One of Saltburn’s greatest accolades is its proximity to the gorgeous North York Moors National Park. Within a short drive, the coastline gives way to rolling moorland, woodland trails and villages embroidered with stone cottages and historic pubs. The Hole of Horcum & Levisham Moor is our favourite 5 to 6.5-mile circular walk starting from Saltergate, featuring an impressive 400-foot-deep natural amphitheater and rugged moorland vistas.
Where to stay
A country house gem
Perched on the edge of the North York Moors, Gisborough Hall offers its grand Victorian character with the warmth of a classic country house stay. Surrounded by manicured gardens and woodland, the hotel is home to elegant bedrooms, luxurious shepherd's huts, a highly regarded spa and a refined restaurant, Chaloner, showcasing seasonal Yorkshire produce. Just a short drive from Saltburn’s windswept coastline, it makes for an idyllic base.
A cottage by the sea
A few minutes' walk from the beach, this dreamy three-bedroom, two-bathroom coastal cottage is pet-friendly. With handy roadside parking and all the amenities you might need, it's well-suited to a self-catered trip with plenty of swims on the itinerary.
In many ways, Saltburn feels like the kind of seaside town Britain is yearning for again: creative but unpretentious, scenic without feeling overrun and clearly connected to the precious landscape that surrounds it. There are no frantic queues or overcrowded harbour fronts here; just long beach walks, independent businesses and the soothing sound of the North Sea rolling in beneath the pier.
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Maddy is the Homes Writer at House Beautiful UK and Country Living UK, where she can be found writing about the latest interiors news and collating inspiring trend edits. She has previously worked for Good Housekeeping, Prima and Red, and has an MA in Classics and Ancient History from the University of Manchester and a BA in English Literature and Creative Writing from the University of East Anglia, where she was the editor-in-chief of the student newspaper.
